Trip Paztzcuaro

by Gringo Viejo @, Kansas/Zihuatanejo, Friday, July 07, 2017, 17:35 (776 days ago)

Took about six hours. Had to readjust to open road driving habits-this cuota is two lanes and it is usual to totally ignore no passing lanes and just move onto shoulder when someone wants to pass. More often than not the oncoming traffic will also move onto shoulder to allow a passing vehicle. On two occasions two vehicles passed while going past two vehicles in opposite direction. Yep, four abreast at moment of passing. On one occasion 3 abreast came at us, it was close with 4 abreast but we did it! Note the shoulders are narrow. Speed limits are non existent.

Patzcuaro was delightful for 4 days. Clean and culture unfettered by gringo influenced. Saw two other gringos on one day, 3 on another and 4 one day.

Food was not as good as I remembered and service was slow.

Rain showers every afternoon. Mid 60s days, low 50s night.

3 locals who traveled with me and had never traveled out of Zihua area were impressed with cleaniness of area and low prices in the central market of fruits, vegetables and consumer items. Overall cost of ling lower than Z area.

Absolutely beautiful countryside. Will go again in a month or so. Motels in El Centro area about 900 a night. Take warm clothes and walking shoes. Lots of churches to see as well as local street and Plaza Grande and Plaza Chica entertainment.

You will not be disappointed.

Oh, yes, don't be surprised if you run into toll booths manned by locals who have taken over and are collecting the tolls.


Trip to Pátzcuaro

by ZihuaRob ⌂ @, Zihuatanejo, México, Friday, July 07, 2017, 17:48 (776 days ago) @ Gringo Viejo

Ha! Great trip report! Especially the part about the Autopista Siglo XXI.

Sorry to hear you didn't enjoy the food.

Weather sounds perfect!



Trip Paztzcuaro

by Talley Ho @, Playa la Ropa, Friday, July 07, 2017, 18:15 (776 days ago) @ Gringo Viejo

Patzcuaro is lovely, but VERY cold in the winter, even freezing at night.

Mexico has, for probably the last 5 years or so, gone to toll roads that are one lane each way with WIDE shoulders that are actually designated for passing. Try doing the 4 abreast in a motorhome, with a bus coming at you! Exciting.

Yes, the one toll booth is notorious for being taken over. Sometimes they request a donation, often not.

Speeding is enforced on that toll road, our neighbors in their moho have been stopped twice coming down the mountain.

We are fond of Hotel Villa Patzcuaro, a bit on the edge of town, but each room has a fireplace, it's dog friendly and has nice space to exercise them.


Trip Paztzcuaro

by jbmass ⌂ @, Mass,.. N.H...Zih., Sunday, July 09, 2017, 09:34 (774 days ago) @ Talley Ho

La Casa Encantada is very nice too.

Trip Paztzcuaro

by Gringo Viejo @, Kansas/Zihuatanejo, Sunday, July 09, 2017, 10:25 (774 days ago) @ jbmass

I agree, one of the best lodgings; also has long term furnished apartment rentals. . Great for a couple of days but I am on a budget and Hotels are available, very nice for under 900 MXP.

As an aside: Very nice long term rentals near El Centro for $750 month year round. I would prefer to live on Playa Blanca BUT even though affordable in summer months there is nothing available for long term that I can afford. The market is focused on the short term visitor.


Trip Paztzcuaro

by frostbite ⌂ @, Hamilton MT, Sunday, July 09, 2017, 15:56 (774 days ago) @ Gringo Viejo

Posada San Rafael is a good place to stay in Patzcuaro. Reasonably priced, located on the main square and they have off-street parking. We were there in January about 10 years ago. I was wearing shorts and flip-flops and the sidewalk vendors, shivering while clad in parkas, were looking at me like I had lost my mind.


Trip Paztzcuaro

by Gringo Viejo @, Kansas/Zihuatanejo, Sunday, July 09, 2017, 16:55 (774 days ago) @ frostbite

That has been my experience also. BUT I remember going to Kana City for Christmas vacation when I was living in Fairbaks,; the locals were freezing with parkas at 40F but I was overheating with a short sleeve shirt.


Trip Paztzcuaro

by frostbite ⌂ @, Hamilton MT, Sunday, July 09, 2017, 17:41 (774 days ago) @ Gringo Viejo

I like Fairbanks in the summertime, but it sucks in winter. I recall a trip we took to - appropriately named - Cold Foot. Someone was trying to shoot a commercial with trained wolves. It was so cold, they refused to get out of their kennels, so we were sent up there to haul them out. It was 80 F below when we landed! We left one engine running, jumped out, loaded the kennels, started the other engine and got the hell out of there. At 50 to 100 feet above the ground the temperature rises fast, so you really have to watch your power settings, because they drop fast as the ambient temperature rises.


Trip Paztzcuaro

by Paulf @, Mount Sterling, Ky 40353, Monday, July 10, 2017, 12:45 (773 days ago) @ frostbite

We stayed at Eco-hotel Ixhi. The hotel is a short distance from downtown. When we stayed there, there was problems with break in of cars parked on the street if the hotel did not offer off street parking-that's why we went there. The view from the hotel of the lake and the island with the mountains in the back ground beautiful. The hotel is on the side of the hill with the whole back free of any obstruction. We loved in the morning enjoying the view with cups of coffee and then wine after dinner. A couple of times saw the freight trains in the valley below pass by in the distance. When we go back to Patzquaro, we will stay there again. From what I have read there have been a lot of improvements since we were there.

Trip Patzcuaro

by HolyMole, Monday, July 10, 2017, 18:51 (773 days ago) @ frostbite

We stayed at a lovely quiet little place called Posada de la Salud, across the street from the cathedral of the same name. On-street parking, a decorative non-working fireplace (and it was cold in February) but the blankets on the bed weighed about 20 lbs. The price was right - 320 pesos - that was in 2006. Walking distance to both plazas.
(Stephen Wright says everywhere is within walking distance if you have the time).
Had breakfast in a unique place called Posada de la Basilica, nearby, with a great view over Centro.

Food Is A disappointment

by mexicowanderer, Tuesday, July 11, 2017, 00:02 (773 days ago) @ Gringo Viejo

Unless one eats like locals in the Mercado Municipal in Plaza Bocanegra. The smaller of the two zocalos.

The restaurante adjacent to the gasolinera outside of town (across from the railroad tracks) offers the best food for the dollar. Few extraneous eat here.

As sad as Patzcuaro is for restaurant food, Lazaro Cardenas is worse. Zihuatanejo / Ixtapa is a world apart.

Food Is A disappointment

by Charlybby, Tuesday, July 11, 2017, 23:53 (772 days ago) @ mexicowanderer

Four of us girls went a couple of years ago in Feb or march by bus. Yes it was very cold! Two of us were fine, two were frozen! We had good food, but I still crave their delicious soup you can't get elsewhere !!! And... I'm not a big soup person! We stayed right in town square & saw so much! Enjoyed every minute, even the fireplace in our room at the end of the day that had only 2 or 3 little twigs! Lol !!!:jeer:

The Soup

by mexicowanderer, Friday, July 14, 2017, 03:22 (770 days ago) @ Charlybby

Prepare onion soup. Cut corn tortillas into 1" strips. Cut the strips into 1-1/2" lengths. Melt a gob of panela cheese. Put everything into a big bowl. Heat the soup and strips until the cheese melts. And there you have it.

Lago Zirahuen
Dianna Kennedy's place is sooooooo far from Patzcuaro and not just in kilometers.

I don't know if there is even a place to get decent carnitas. Last trip I endured a sad plate of enchiladas in a restaurant on zocalo Don Vasco de Quiroga.

The Soup

by Charlybby, Sunday, July 16, 2017, 16:37 (767 days ago) @ mexicowanderer

Thanks! The soup we had, had beans, like pinto beans in it. I think it started with a "T"?!


The Soup

by Talley Ho @, Playa la Ropa, Sunday, July 16, 2017, 18:06 (767 days ago) @ Charlybby

Tarasco, azteca, tortilla soup, all versions of basically the same, often great, thing. Sopa......

Sopa Tarascano

by mexicowanderer, Sunday, July 16, 2017, 23:50 (767 days ago) @ Charlybby

Purepecha, the dominant indigenous citizens. I asked a smiling (indigena) about the soup in the mercado and she replied


Authentic Purepecha cuisine includes carnes de ova and carnero, mutton and lamb. Something difficult to find on a menu. I was camped out and a young herder happened by and he looked parched. He refused a glass of chilled orange juice but guzzled down a half liter of jugo de naranja al tiempo. We became coincidental friends. He would stop by camp daily and he filled my ears with stories of indigena life. Authentic. He was dressed in black wool and his Spanish was basic. Very enjoyable.

Tarascan soup depends entirely on el sazon the cook's touch to elevate it from downright boring to interesting.

The super heavy wool sweaters that can be found in this region have proven to me they suppress cold humid air (Like found in the winter Ixil Triangle of Guatemala) far better than the heaviest goose down coat. Might be worth a thought for visitors from Vancouver island.

Sopa Tarascano

by islandgirl @, Cowichan Valley, Tuesday, July 18, 2017, 01:21 (766 days ago) @ mexicowanderer

We have Cowichan sweaters! Never hurts to add to the wardrobe, 'tho!

Food Is A disappointment

by Paulf @, Mount Sterling, Ky 40353, Wednesday, July 12, 2017, 08:42 (771 days ago) @ mexicowanderer

The first time we were in Patzquaro, we were in the library next to the square(had a beautiful Utopian Mural on the wall) and a American asked us where were we going to have lunch(was around 11 am), he told us about this street that was at an angle that went to the Church. The restaurant was owned by an American and had not been open to long. We went there for lunch- the food was really good. The owner had bought antique furniture from all over Mexico. There were 2 hall way entrances from the street with a large open patio if you did not want to eat in one of the rooms. My wife almost broke us buying glass that he had specially made to sell. I read later his quality of food dropped and closed. We really enjoyed eating lunch on the patio and talking to him about how he had fell in love with Patzquaro. He had closed his business in the States and he and his partner moved to Patzquaro. We told him how we found his restaurant- he said the person was unhappy because his wife wanted to move back to the States and they were leaving in a couple of days.


Best Tacos Anywhere!

by Talley Ho @, Playa la Ropa, Friday, July 14, 2017, 08:27 (769 days ago) @ mexicowanderer

David, I know you will sorely disagree with this, but in our opinions, the absolute best tacos we have found in Mexico are in Patzcuaro. Right where you get off the combi's, on the first plaza, step into the market. (Same plaza the library is on. First taco place dead ahead, red shirts, Santa Cruz Taqueria, to DIE for! Four choices of meat, great salsas, and each plate comes with a big chunk of perfectly cooked nopal, and a potato, cut in half. Very inexpensive, too. They also do quesadillas that are great.

We always buy our carnitas, and again, find them outstanding, inside the market across from the chicken ladies. Fabulous!

To each his own.

Best Tacos Anywhere!

by mexicowanderer, Friday, July 14, 2017, 11:09 (769 days ago) @ Talley Ho

Disagree? Heck no! You have me jumping with joy! I was asssssuming few tourists "street grunt" and sick to restaurants. I am a devotee to las mercados municipales. For sure, the next time I find myself in that truly Pueblo Magico with the family, we are going to head right to your recommendation. Thank You Talley Ho.