Trip Report

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Escrito por BW desde ( el día martes, 07 de marzo, 2006 a las 19:17:54 horas :

Just returned from Zihua yesterday after two weeks in Mexico including one in Zihua. Left Seattle Feb. 20 on Continental via Houston to Guadalajara arriving at 8:30 PM and were met at the airport by the owners of Quinta Don Jose, a beautiful B&B located just outside Guadalajara in Tlaquepaque(ta-la-ka-pa-kee). The B&B is located one block off the main street of Tlaqapaque and is in easy walking distance to the many artesan shops that line the quaint and colonial streets of this very interesting comunity. Prices were good and the old square called the Parian housing many restaurants and cafes is very interesting. The town is very clean and one should plan to spend at least two-three dyas exploring this area and the city of Guadalajara.
We took a nice two hour cab tour through Guadalajara with a driver recommended by the B&B.
After two nights at Quinta Don Jose (tel. from U.S. 1-866-629-3753) they drove us to the bus station and we were off on ETN to Morelia ($59.00 U.S.) for two. Arriving in Morelia, we transferred to a second class bus to continue on to Patzcuaro (22.00 pesos PP), arriving at 5 PM.
PATZCUARO-Simply put-beautiful and a real taste of Old Mexico. We stayed at the historic Mansion Iturbe located right on Vasco de Quiroga Square, the principal square of town. The hotel was built in 1790 and ha been refurbished and restored by the descendants of the original owners. (cost for two-$1100.00 pesos per night and they had a special if you pay for three nights, the fourth was free.) A delicious breakfast is included and some of the rooms overlook the square itself which is surrounded by buildings similar in architecture to Mansion Iturbe. Most of the buildings having been built in the late 1700's and were originally grand mansions and have now mostly been converted into hotels and artesan shops.
I could go on and on about how authentic and quaint this area is but will limit this to the highlights. Suffice it to say, one could spend a week here and not see everything but here are the must do's: Take the trolley tour 45.oo pesos pp, take the boat to Juanitzio $30.00 pesos pp round trip, visit the communities surrounding Lake Patzcuaro which all have a different artesan specialty and be sure you stroll through the local mercado early in the morning when the local merchants are selling their fresh friuts and vegetables. Restaurants-Too many to list but El Patio was good and all are very reasonable. Average price for dinner is about $300.00 pesos with drinks. Lunch on Janitzio was $110.00 pesos for enchiladas, chile rellenos, and two beer. Try to take a cab to Uruapan via Tacambaro (visit the ruins here) and tour the National parque in Uruapan. It's well worth the trip and is gorgeous and clean. Cost for the cab (approximately $700.00 pesos for the day which included round trip from Patzcuaro and lunch.
Lower cost hotels are available ranging from $250.00 Pesos per night for two. One that looked good was the Hotel Rincon de Josefa ( at $600.00 Pesos per night.
Off to Zihua on Sunday with our friend Juan from Zihua who was nice enough to use his private car to drive to Patzcuaro to pick us up. Juan also is giving city tours around Zihua (cell 755-101-6255)
Driving via the new toll road to Zihua we arrived at Casa Kau-Kan on Playa Larga around 4 PM to the friendly greetings of the fantastic staff at this small boutique hotel overlooking Playa Larga.
Monday was spent relaxing in the sun, walking the beach and watching the whales frolic in front of the hotel. Dinner at Ristorante Kau-Kan which was exceptional as always. Tuesday was spent driving into Zihua to browse and shop with lunch at Tamales and then back to the hotel for a swim and a quiet dinner. Wednesday we drove down past Petatlan about 15 miles to a beach (can't remember the name) that has 6-7 small restaurants and NO PEOPLE to have lunch and watch the local boys fish from the rocks.
Thursday I went fishing with Ramon Olea (755-554-4311) and we got into a large school of tuna which were fascinating to watch along with about 100 porpoises jumping, rolling and playing next to the boat while the frigate birds were feasting on the bait fish. All in all, quite a sight and a great day on the boat with an excellent captain. Great dinner at Il Mare!
Friday, made a mistake and took a drive to Villa Vera and then to Ixtapa. Can't imagine why anyone would build such an ugly wall to block such a great view over Puerto Mio. Have to agree with Rob on this one. Made bigger mistake and grabbed lunch at Carlos & Charlie's.
Saturday we spent the day with Ramon and his family snorkeling at Manzanillo Beach and the fished on the way to Isle Iztapa for lunch on the beach and then fished again on the way back to Zihua, coming across some bonita that teased us but wouldn't bite. Dinner at Los Braseros-excellent food and reasonable prices.
Sunday-Lunch at La Perla and looked at a house to rent in the future and another great dinner at Kau-Kan. Ricardo, you are the best!
Monday-To the airport to head home on Continental via Houston and then on to Seattle, arriving at 5 PM surprisingly enough to a heavy rain, low fog and 45 degree temp. (how depressing)
Anyway, that's it folk's. Thanks to Rob for the site-to Stew for the info on Patz, GDL and Uruapan.

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