Re: "beginner surfer" needing a pointer(s)

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Escrito por the groom desde ( el día viernes, 03 de diciembre, 2004 a las 16:16:52 horas :

En respuesta a: "beginner surfer" needing a pointer(s) escrito por Canuck desde (?) el día viernes, 03 de diciembre, 2004 a las 15:50:23 horas :

hey canuck -

firstly, at saladita, you're going to head into the water way to the right of the break - ostensibly paddling in calm water towards the break at an angle. sit on the beach for awhile and watch how others do it.

but at some point you'll get out, take a wave, fall, and find yourself "inside" looking a a wall of whitewater coming your way.

here's what you do -

long boards are really too long to "duck dive." instead, you'll keep both hands on the rails (the side of the board). you then fall off to either side, and pull the board over you (turn it over on top of you) try and pull the nose down a little. hold on tight! the curve of the board (known as the rocker) should allow the whitewash to roll over your board. then when the wave has passed, turn the board over, hop on, and paddle for the horizon.

you can also let go of your board, let it drag behind you from you leash, and swim down under the wave - but very important - if you do this, look behind you first to make sure no one is there. you don't want to ditch your board and have it spear someone. also, once you come up be very careful - the wave will have grabbed your board and stretched your leash - sometimes your board will come shooting back at your head - if my board gets loose, i always come up with a hand in front of my head.

another hint - be polite out there. here's the protocol: if a wave is breaking from right to left, whoever is closest to the whitewater owns that wave - never take off when someone is already on the wave, or is closer to critical (whitewater) zone. in some places i've surfed, that can get you beat up. bad.

anyway, have a blast man - but be careful - catch a few and you might be hooked for life! :)

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