Troncones trip report, 24 Dec-3 Jan

[Archives Home] [Zihuatanejo Ixtapa Home] [Zihuatanejo Ixtapa Troncones Message Board]

Escrito por Amanda in Pdx (left coast) desde ( el día miércoles, 05 de enero, 2005 a las 17:15:49 horas :

We wasted a few days getting our bearings of the area, but that'll just make our next visit even better, now that we know the ropes…and there will definitely be another visit!

Troncones is a dusty little rural Mexican town that just happens to be right on a white sand beach. There were donkeys and semi-feral pigs roaming the one dirt road in town, and sometimes at night, you'd hear the burros braying (though the crash of the waves meant that the burros probably wouldn't wake one out of a sound sleep--I only ever heard the burros when I stayed up and read).

The house we stayed in—Casa Ki—was part of a little complex: very simple house, but with all the amenities one might want, totally open air (though w/ mesh screens to keep out the bugs), and patrolled by the four family cats (I can only recall the name of one--a cross-eyed white kitty named Ricky, as in Martin) and the three family dogs: Sabrina, a golden lab; Shayna, a smaller German shepherd mix; and Sadie, an Australian shepherd mix. I'd like to think they loved us for ourselves, but it was probably for the doggie and kitty treats we brought along in anticipation of finding substitute our cat and dog to stave off homesickness. :)

The butt-to-hammock ratio was an ideal 1:1, so you can imagine how relaxing that place is. For fun, we boogie boarded in the surf right out front, or ate our way through the town's shrimp and guacamole supply. The novelty of a beer truck was pretty cool as well, though we almost always seemed to miss its arrival because we were out having too much fun. :)

We also went into town (Zihuatanejo once, Ixtapa once) to do a little touristy shopping--I got some nice silver jewelry, and a few other fun touristy things, like a hammock, and some local art. To get into town both times, we took the combi to the highway (5 pesos) and then the bus into town (10 pesos). For Ixtapa, it’s another 5 peso combi ride into town.

You can also catch the bus from the big rounder-type thing (maybe a 2-3 minute combi ride from where the bus drops you on the highway—just ask the bus fare collector for the Ixtapa/Playa Linda stop) to Playa Linda, where you can catch a water taxi to Isla Ixtapa for 30 pesos round trip. There, you’ll find some pretty, albeit crowded, snorkeling. To be honest, the water was so turbid (though likely due to being there during the highest season, so lots and lots of people to kick up sand, etc.) that visibility wasn’t much. I preferred donning my flippers and mask at Manzanillo Bay and paddling out toward the rocks. Though there wasn’t as much to see, I didn’t run the risk of bumping into anyone else while seeing it. We’ll probably forgo the trip to Isla Ixtapa next time—but that’s just because having lots of people around isn’t our way of having a good time.

If your idea of an ideal vacation is looking down the beach and realizing that, even at high season, you’re only sharing it with maybe 20 other people in your line of vision, Troncones is the place for you. We couldn’t have loved it more…

Food—we ate a few times at Costa Brava in Playa Troncones; we also enjoyed the yummy tacos at Café Sol in town; the Italian restaurant (try the penne ala vodka) past tienda Gaby toward the highway; and we went one night for dinner and to watch the traditional dancing at El Burro Burracho. We went to the new place right by Casa Ki (toward the intersection from the casa, next door to Casa Escondida), but the name escapes me. In comparison with our two favorites—Costa Brava (me encanta their sopa de tortilla and their camarones al gusto) and Café Sol (yummy gelato, too)—the food was as forgettable as the name, but I’d give them another shot next time to see whether they come into their own, cooking-wise.

Follow Ups: