Troncones trip report


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Escrito por nancy in vancouver desde 24.81.26.234 (S0106000d936a5568.vc.shawcable.net) el día lunes, 07 de febrero, 2005 a las 16:28:25 horas :

We spent 8 days in Troncones and were a little concerned that we wouldn't find enough to do. As it turned out our days were jam-packed. We quickly fell into a routine - get up, put on bathingsuit, go for breakfast, get coffee to take back to the sitting area outside our room overlooking the beach, go for a walk, have a swim, have lunch, read and snooze (man, is there anything better than snoozing - you know, when you're reading and the letters start to swim around on the page and you think, hey, I could have a little snooze, who cares what time it is), swim in the ocean, go for a walk, have another swim, watch hermit crabs, walk 2 minutes to Troncones point to watch the sunset, have supper, watch the moon rise over the hills, hit the sack.

We stayed at the Inn at Manzanillo Bay. This was our first time to the Troncones area and we were a little unclear as to where things were in proximity to other things. Manzanillo Bay is a few miles out of the town of Troncones. We walked it one day - miles of wild empty beach, incredible charcoal volcanic rocks holding tide pools full of life. We walked to Troncones the day after two nights and a day of rain and the beach was blooming - great patches of green leaves and little lavendar flowers that looked like violets, huge spiky cactus with bright yellow flowers. Birds like I've never seen before. Tall white shorebirds with yellow legs, large, dumpy, noisy black and white birds with a sort of black tassel on their heads. For those interested in horseback riding we saw the same man every day leading three or four horses along the beach, followed by two dawdling ponies who would fall behind and then canter and run past the horses, kicking their heels and playing just like kids.

There is alot of construction going on between Manzanillo Bay and Troncones, BUT it is all small scale. Private houses and bed and breakfasts. We stopped off at a few of them along the way and were greeted with great friendliness by the owners, especially at Regalo del Mar.
This is a beautiful spot on a point all it's own. I would think that anyone who stayed here would need a car. There are no restaurants nearby that I could see but there is a communal kitchen, so if you're into cooking for yourself, staying at a place that's beautifully done with alot of privacy and on a wild and beautiful beach, it is the place for you.

Troncones was interesting. It's a small town. Tourism has had an impact on it, there are a few small hotels, but it is still a real town. Had some very good fish tacos at Burro Borracho and walked back to the Inn at Manzanillo Bay.

We enjoyed staying at the Inn at Manzanillo Bay, with only a few reservations. The beds are hard, and it is difficult to read by the bug lights in the room. The food was good, although one day I had some pretty chewy (!?) fish tacos. The margaritas are killers - one was my limit. The owner bottles his own "Big Boy" tequila which is, ummm, rather good. The pool is fabulous. I know the ocean is there, but it is still nice to have a pool for a refreshing dip.

Next time we go to Troncones we'll try Eden, just for a change, which is a few minutes walk along the beach from the Inn at Manzanillo Bay. We made friends with some people who were staying there and saw their room. It was large, light, spacious and airy, with really good reading lights and large bathrooms. Eden's website really doesn't do the place justice. They have done some work on the lower rooms, extending the overhang over the patios, and thus doubling the living space. The covered patios have tables and chairs and hammocks. The restaurant at Eden is wonderful, run by an ex American football player. I always felt the air at Eden was 10 degrees cooler than anywhere else on the beach, probably because of the extensive, lush plantings there. It is really beautiful. They are building a few more bungalows and scattered around the property are loads of places to sit - sky chairs, hammocks, even a large, curtained gazebo. Add to all this a funky and very dangerous gift shop called "fruity keiko" after the resident dog.

We walked in the other direction one day to the town of Majahua. We brought dried dogfood with us to give to the stray dogs, and met some folks from Colorado who did the same and gave us bags of dog food samples to take to the dogs there. There were many skinny, mangy dogs. The town again is very small, a real town with a few little restaurants and lots of fishing boats parked on the shore. There is a school there and the kids were let out when we were there. Suddenly the sandy lanes were full of little kids in school uniforms. I don't think tourists are very common in the town and the kids looked us with wary curiosity although when we smiled they smiled back.

The day after it rained, surf was up and the surfers came from all around. Americans, Australians, Canadians, locals. Some old guys, mostly young guys, some young women. It was great to watch them catch a wave and cheer each other on. And some of them really did call each other dude.

It was a blast and we can't wait to get back. After years of travelling to different places in Mexico we have finally found the place for us. Next time it'll be two weeks, with a couple of days at either end at La Quinta Troppo and the rest at Eden. Troncones is the sort of place where all you need is a couple of bathingsuits, some sandals with good soles for sanding on volcanic rocks to peer into tidepools, insect repellent, sunscreen, a flashlight for nightwalks on the beach and something relatively decent to wear while eating. Maybe binoculars to watch the surfers, I mean the birds. That's it!




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