Trip report: Troncones in November--long


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Escrito por Celeste desde 129.71.136.38 (ip136038.dialup.wvnet.edu) el día miércoles, 09 de marzo, 2005 a las 21:55:31 horas :

Just got back from Zihuatanejo after four lovely months…to lots of snow, cold, cold, cold, mountains of mail, dust a mile thick over everything, and CARPENTER ANTS! I guess they don’t like it outside any better than we do now! However, this message is about Troncones in November. Thanks to tips from the message board, we knew just what to do…turn to the left just outside of the baggage area and get lots of lovely pesos from the ATM there (this ATM will give up to 5,000 pesos,) as there are no ATMs or banks in Troncones. Then we caught a combi into town to stock up at Commercial Mexicana, since there are no grocery stores in Troncones either, just a couple of small tiendas. Finally, we loaded a whole cart full of food into a taxi and headed to Troncones. About 40 minutes and N$300 later, we arrived at the Tropic of Cancer to pick up our key from Anita LaPointe, who manages Casa Tranquila. By now it was dark and our cab driver had trouble finding the house, but fortunately I had a little penlight in my carryon bag, so we were able finally to find the house. There are no lights along this dirt road, so we were thankful for the Board tip to bring a flashlight. By the time we got everything put away and our suitcases unpacked, we were starved! We were very happy that one of the items we bought at Commercial was one of their delicious roasted chickens so that we could make chicken tacos for our first night! Casa Tranquila is very conveniently situated in Troncones, so we could easily walk everywhere, and it is right on the beach. Unfortunately while we were there, there were houses being built on both sides of us, so sometimes during the day it got awfully noisy, not that it ever interfered with my siesta! The heat for the first two weeks was very tiring, especially at night. Plus of course we were getting acclimated to the heat during this time. However, it was especially beautiful in November because so many trees, vines and plants were still in bloom from the rainy season. One advantage of its being so hot was that it always felt good to go jump in the ocean, so we went at least twice a day. The current was strong, but we found that if we went first thing in the morning and at about 3:30 or 4:00 in the afternoon, it wasn’t too strong for me. The surf was really up by 11:00, so if you are a surfer, you’d probably rather go then. Body surfing was a real treat, as the waves were just right for getting a terrific ride; it felt like riding champagne bubbles! I’ve already posted about using the micro to ride out to Hwy #200 or to La Union or Lagunillas for market day. Put micro+Troncones into Rob’s search engine to read if interested. There’s no mercado in Troncones, just a couple of tiendas, where we could buy some basic things. We were able to buy salsa casera there, when Richard decided he wanted to make chilaquiles (fabulous!!) We were also able to regularly get yogurt natural there, and an occasional papaya to go with it. We were able to buy fresh tortillas in Troncones at the tortilleria (enjoy seeing the chickens with little chicks and pigs with little piglets on the dirt road to the tortilleria,) but we never could buy bolillos in Troncones. This was a big crises, because that is one of our very favorite Mexican things. Fortunately we found them at the mercado at Lagunillas (Mondays) and probably could have gotten them at the market in La Union (Tuesdays.) The mercado in Zihuatanejo also has them, of course, but we only went into Zihua once while we stayed in Troncones. Richard is a terrific cook, and Casa Tranquila is extremely well equipped for cooking (not baking, but who would want to in that heat???) so we mostly cooked our own meals while in Troncones. We did go to Enramada Gladys in Majahua (next little tiny town North) twice. Richard had a wonderful whole fish, and I had the best shrimp of my life…grilled with the shells on in butter and a ton of garlic. Fabulous! I think our dinners were N$80 each plus drink (N$10 for a gigantic bottle of water) and tip. We visited the boutique at Tropic of Cancer several times. Barb and Joan are terrific people, have a very nice shop there, and stock lots of good books in their (free) book exchange. We checked our email several times at Jaguar Tours, but as it cost N$20 for 15 minutes, then N$15 for each 15 minutes after that, we limited our time there. We loved our stay in Troncones because it was so tranquil and relaxing and the people there so friendly and accepting. We loved doing yoga every morning under the stars at zero dark thirty, so we could go jump in the ocean at first light. We brought lots of Spanish lesson books and tapes, so we had plenty of time in an excellent environment to study. We spent most of each morning studying on our patio, which was a pleasant shady place that looks out to the sea, then we could sally forth to practice what we had learned on the ever-so-patient and kind locals. We both felt that we made excellent progress with our study of Spanish, which was one of our goals of this trip. Next up: Bungalows Ley in December.



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