On Zihuatanejo Time - Part II

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Posted by MB in Chicago on May 08, 2001 at 13:18:17:

In Reply to: Trip Report - On Zihuatanejo Time posted by MB in Chicago on May 07, 2001 at 15:01:27:

Day 3 – Sailing, take me away…

On Tuesday we went sailing and snorkeling on the Nirvana. There were only two couples on the boat that day so we really got to spread out and receive personal treatment. Capt. Andrew and his crew were great and we enjoyed conversing with them. Snorkeling was done near Manzanillo but the water was ice cold so we didn’t snorkel for long. The sail was raised and a gourmet lunch was served. The food on board the Nirvana was excellent. If you haven’t noticed, food is everywhere and part of everything you do there so leave your diets at home when you visit Zihuatanejo. May wife got a little seasick and the crew, especially Kris, was great. We ended the cruise a little early as a result. I would recommend the Nirvana to any couple looking for a peaceful sail which was exactly what we wanted. Thanks again Capt. Andrew and the Nirvana crew for a great day. If your looking for more of a party cruise I would recommend the Tristar, which is about $20US cheaper.

We took it easy the rest of the day so my wife could get her legs back. That evening we decided to stay and eat at the hotel. It was Italian night, which I was ready for a change by then, and the food was outstanding. I don’t think the Villa del Sol restaurant gets enough credit on this message board. The gnocchi was unbelievable and I had sea bass with a red sauce and capers that was excellent.

Day 4 – Another perfect day on the beach

After yesterday’s sailing trip we decided to stay at the resort and enjoy the facilities. We hit the beach early and once again found the perfect palapa by the pool. The ocean breeze had vanished and the heat started building. I spent a lot of time floating in the pool to cool off. We at lunch on the beach. In the shade behind each palapa the have a table and chairs. When lunch is served they turn the table into your outside dining area and cover the table with a linen tablecloth, set silverware, and napkins. It was great to eat like royalty right on the beach.

In the evening we went into town so that I could finish haggling with a merchant over a pair of sandals. Sandals, a ceramic sun and moon and $250 later we went to Coconuts for dinner. The place was OK. We both felt that the restaurant was built for American tourists and as a result the ambience, food, and service didn’t carry the charm the other restaurants displayed. With so many other great places to eat I would put this at the bottom of the list next time we visit. After dinner we went back to the hotel, took a moonlit walk along the beach and then sat in our pool and relaxed.

Day 5 – Experience the Culture

Today we take our day trip with Javier, the waiter from Casa Que Canta, to visit the archeological site at Le Solidad de Maciel. We were picked up by Javier and his friend Alejandro and drove off. Javier had a photo album and showed us picture of his family. We enjoyed the family history and how strong the family unit is in Mexico.

Javier said we need to find Francisco who could give us a tour of the area. We found out when we arrived that Francisco was in the coconut fields so we all packed into the car and drove through the fields while Francisco’s sister-in-law yelled his name out the window. About 45 minutes, and a very interesting ride, we found him and drove back to the village. He showed us a booklet he had of the larger pieces that have been taken to the museum in Petatlan. We visited the church which contained a large carving of an ancient Rey made about 16,000 BC. Then we went into someone’s house and they filled the table with ancient clay pots, tools, and small carvings. A small pilgrimage began to form around “the Americans” and little kids handed my wife flowers as we walked the streets. It the scene was almost surreal.

Then Javier took us up into the hills. We saw a 300 year old cactus tree that was at least 100 ft high anf an ancient “road map” that was carved into a large rock. He took us to the mouth of a cavern where ancient priests made offerings and performed ceremonies to their gods. The last thing we saw where the ruins of an ancient pyramid so grown over that you could only see the granite racks of the very top. Francisco said that the valley used to be the home of over 3,000 Indians.

We gave Francisco $10US to thank him for the tour which we enjoyed a lot, especially the visiting the village. Let me say that I am little torn regarding the appropriateness of the visit. On one hand by visiting and paying money we encouraged the villagers to find and keep artifacts from an archeological site that has never been properly excavated. On the other hand the artifacts belong to these people who are the ancestors of the Indians who made them not the government. I am not going to debate the issue but leave the choice to each of you. In the end it was clear that many of the larger pieces had been taken by the government to the museum in Petatlan.

We got back to the resort hot and tired and cooled off in our pool. Later that evening we went into Zihua for dinner. The place we wanted to eat was closed so we tried to find Rob’s office which we did. Rob is a great person and I would recommend anyone who visits Zihua top look him up. The warmth and love that you see Rob put into this site is only a small portion of what you see in person. After an hour of great conversation and a hug from my wife, who started hugging people we met by this point in our trip, Rob sent us in the direction of Casa Bahia for dinner.

Hands down Casa Bahia was the best meal we had on the vacation. The atmosphere, view, and food were an incredible combination. We started the meal with spinach salads that were unbelievable. My wife only ate half of her salad and Walt, one of the owners, immediately came by to make sure it was OK. Another very interesting 20 minute ensued where my wife learned everything about Walt who was another great Zihua-American we met. My wife had a fabulous steak and mashed potatoes, and I had the Maui tuna that was excellent. This was the best meal of our trip in every respect. We walked back into town and caught a taxi to the resort were we crashed.

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