Posted by JEF from 220.127.116.11 (130-174.dial.gorge.net) on martes, julio 30, 2002 at 12:36:39 :
Trip report 4
The decision to head north for the day was a difficult one. Because we had three weeks we thought we should
experience something other than coastal Mexico. It was difficult because that meant not doing what we had been
doing everyday, namely enjoying the beaches. We picked Patzcuaro because we had heard it had lovely old buildings
and a wonderful old world town center. Also, the new toll road was almost completed so travel time was estimated at
2.5 hrs from Zihua. We found the drive to be spectacular! The area is surrounded with tall glorious mountains and is
truly lovely. Had a great time until the new road ended and the old twisty, narrow and sometimes steep road took
over. And we thought the road to Petalan was scary! Huge trucks and busses travel this road. In order to make the
very sharp turns they have to use both lanes, yet there is no way to know that around the next bend there will be a
semi heading right for you, in your lane. I get an adrenaline rush just thinking of it. Add to this the fact that these
large vehicles have to go slow, and you have the passing problem. I really cannot express how frightening this was.
This however was nothing in the thrill department compared with what was to come. Back on the new road we
decided to change plans and go to Urapan rather than Patzcuaro because the ‘road from hell’ had taken almost an
hour longer than we had allotted. Unfortunately Urapan is a huge city. 200,000. Not very quaint. I quickly read up on
what do , good places to eat/shop etc. Deciding downtown was our destination, and using just the little map in my
guide book we landed on the busiest street I have ever seen. We have driven in Boston, LA, Seattle ,and many other
large cities as well as in Lisbon and Seville. NEVER have I seen anything like Urapan. Now here was a dirty area.
This was lunch time so people in droves were out and about. We all agreed to forget eating, shopping, using the
bathroom or having that tequila I so badly wanted, and get out as soon as we could. That little map was pretty good,
but it couldn’t make my husband listen to directions any more than I could. Lost in a huge city is no fun, plus it
started to rain. We found a Pemex gas station and a sweet kid who, though he shyly stated otherwise, spoke enough
English to direct us to the big road out. Chips and cookies for lunch, and no tequila, but at least we were out. Even
the bad part of the road back seemed appealing. On the way into Troncones we agreed that was it. No more road
trips. Dinner at Burro Buracho. A pina colada to start and the best lobster I have ever had. Actually I had one of the
best grilled red snappers I have ever had and stole many bites of my husbands lobster. It was huge and so fresh and
wonderful. Everything was great! This is one of my top picks for a restaurant with fantastic food, killer setting, good
prices and nice people.
The days passed too quickly, I had wondered if I might grow tired of the tranquility but never did. Staying at Delfin
was absolutely perfect. The others guests that came and went were all really nice people, mostly surfers who were
there to immerse themselves in the laid-back lifestyle and warmth and beauty of Troncones.
Our last day we left for Zihua a couple hours early to give us a chance for some last minute shopping and a last lunch
at Tamales Any. I didn’t think there would be food on the flight back , and even if there was it probably wouldn’t be
edible so.... I had a pork enchilada, pork tamale, and a heavenly Chile relleno, with sides and mezcal. My family is still
amazed I did it. Taking our car back was easy once we found where the Hertz place was. We were a couple hours
overtime but there was no charge. Easy all the way around.
Some last notes:
Had no trouble with the donations we had brought. We got the green light at the airport so no search. A guy
connected with one of the churches picked up the things from us at the San Sabastian. Lighted our load! After seeing
how poor the little villages were we wished we had brought more. Next time we will stay in Troncones again, without
a doubt, and take trips into Zihua. We tried Ixtapa and were disappointed each time, won’t need to go there again. we
found Villas Del Sol snotty in there policies, with the profound apologies of the wait staff. We had lunch there twice,
and drinks a couple of times. The last time was for lunch. After eating a good meal I wanted to have a drink sitting
under a palapa while my son went parasailing. Yes I know, the noise is obnoxious but he had been such a trooper and
at 14 this was his idea of fun. The waiter asked the manager who said that because we were not staying there we
could not sit in the lounge chairs! We had just spent 55.00 on lunch and wanted to spend more on drinks, plus the
place was dead. Another time I was at the bar having a margarita and wanted to drink it by the pool but same story.
Turns out the owner was in town so they were sticking to his rules, which were very unlike the friendly and
welcoming treatment we got EVERYWHERE else. Great trip, and one we will repeat.
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