Trip Report Day 13 - Dec 21 to Jan 5

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Posted by David(in Bellingham) from ( on miťrcoles, febrero 19, 2003 at 18:30:12 :

Day 13 Ė

Another non-fishing day, so I slept in until 9:00. My friends werenít up yet, so I walked around town and hit the ATM, picked up some odds & ends to take home w/ me. I decided on the two bottles of tequila that I was going to take home with me. This year I decided on one bottle of Quita Pena and one bottle of the Corralejo Triple Distillation Private Reserve.

By 10:30 my friends were ready to head for the beach, so we hopped a cab to Cuatro Hermanos at Playa Larga. Since itís Thursday, the traditional day for Pozole, we asked the owner Armando to reserve 3 bowls for us. You should always reserve bowel when you get there, because sometimes they run out.

Today the waveís looked great, so I headed to do some bodysurfing. The waves were mostly in the 5-10 foot range, the biggest Iíve ever seen at this beach. Body surfing is great fun. The waves at this beach break pretty steeply without much curl, so you need to be careful. Itís easy to get crunched on your head with these kind of waves, but if youíre an experienced body-surfer, it shouldnít be a problem.

After a couple of hours of bodysurfing to work up an appetite, I head back to our table on the beach and sit down for own of my favorite meals in the Zihuat area. The pozole at Cuatro Hermanos is the best in the area (in my humble opinion). A soup with a pork broth base, shredded pork, hominy, spices, and probably a few other things Iím forgetting is the central portion of the meal, but what makes the pozole here so great is every thing that comes with it. In addition to the bowl of soup, you get a tray with chopped onions, chopped jalapenos, sliced radishes, dried chile flakes, chips, salsa, fried pork skins, spiced seafood taquitos (rolled in corn tortillaís and deep fried), and the best chile rellenos Iíve ever tasted. You need to plan on stretching lunch out over a few hours to fully enjoy this meal. I donít understand how they can serve this meal for 30 pesos per person.

After lunch, we had some mescal to settle the stomach. Then I settled in for an afternoon alternating between sitting under a palapa reading and riding waves in the surf. I need to find a way to turn this into a full time job. We stayed at the beach until sunset, and then hopped a cab back to town.

After a break for a siesta and time to get cleaned up, Mark, Kait, & I headed out to dinner at Tamales y Atoles Any around 9:00. This is another restaurant that should be on everyoneís must visit list. My only problem with this place is that I usually order too much food. I always get one the tamales that theyíre famous for, and I usually order something else to go with it. I need to remember for next year that, even though the tamales are only 10 pesos each, one is enough for a meal. This time I settle on a pablano pepper & beef tamale and split a chile relleno with Mark. Mark tried one of the pork verde tamales, and Kait ordered the chicken tacos. We washed it all down with another pitcher of Horchata (Thanks for the recipe NoName). They also serve a pretty good pozole on a daily basis here, so if you canít make it down to Playa Larga on a Thursday, you can try the pozole here on any day you stop in.

For some reason, Iíve never tried the Atoles here, but Iíd be interested in hearing someone who has comment on them.

After a rough day at the beach (and all that food), all of us were pretty tired. Mark & I have a tuna fishing trip planned for the next day, so we all decided to head home and call it a night.

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