Trip Report


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Escrito por frostbite desde 66.58.158.217 (217-158-58-66.gci.net) el día martes, 30 de marzo, 2004 a las 23:41:26 horas :

We arrived March 12, were greeted with a smile by the immigration lady and by a green light at customs. Was this a good omen? We had the first week to ourselves before hooking up with friends from California with whom we are planning a real estate purchase. This week was set aside for serious loafing and sampling the good food of the area. Days were spent on Playa Las Gatas under the good care of Franco the waiter at Otilia. As always, our first stop for dinner was "Any's". And, as always,we were greeted by Jose like long lost relatives. Last year we were befriended on the water taxi to Las Gatas by Munki(sp?), one of the waiters there. He has since moved to a job at El Arbolito, on the Paseo Del Pescador. He spotted us in the crowd and another big welcome followed. Of course we had several meals there; the octopus was particularly tasty. We also dined at Daniel's, La Gula, Casa Bahia (their tuna was superb) and Cafe Chuleto, the new home of Paul's staff and menu. This was easily the best meal we had on the Paseo, but we were the only customers there. I sincerely hope that business picks up for them. By far the most expensive meal was had at La Casa Que Canta. When I called to make reservations I was drilled about their dress code, which included shoes rather than sandals. I assured the lady that not only would we be wearing clean clothes, but, in order to make up for our lack of shoes, we would also refrain from belching and picking our noses while at the table. Imagine my surprise when I spotted 2 men at different tables wearing shorts and sandals! The staff was very attentive, but the food was average at best. The ambience, however, is unsurpassed. I took my wife to El Manglar for lunch and to view the crocodiles, who were nowhere to be seen. When I asked the waiter about them, he sent a young boy to the bank where he stirred the water with a big stick. It didn't take long for a huge croc to come investigate. The best overall deal for food was found at a restaurant called Vista Del Morro, located on the beach near the airport. We went there with Anita, our landlady at Bungalows Pacificos. To get there you make a right turn onto a dirt road which runs along the perimeter of the airport. I had an excellent fish stew billed as "Viagra". What I found noteworthy was the fact that, while none of the staff spoke even a word of English, their menu of all the places we ate was the only one whose English translation contained absolutely no mistakes. We took our usual 3 fishing trips. We had hoped to catch tuna and marlin, but only hooked 5 sailfish. Our other 2 trips involved a few hours of fishing (we caught lots of Sierra, Bonito and Cocinero) followed by snorkeling on Isla Ixtapa while one of the restaurants cooked some of the fish for lunch. Snorkeling was good the first time, but on our subsequent visit the surf at Playa Coral was deadly, so we just swam on the other side of the island, where the fish are not that plentiful. The second week consisted mostly of business matters interspersed with dinners and "happy hours". The price for all these good times was stepping into a foot and a half of snow in my Birkenstocks upon our return home to Anchorage, and having to dig out the cab which had gotten stuck. Now all we can do is reminisce and scheme and dream of our return next winter.



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