Re: Copper Canyon

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Escrito por Laura desde ( el día miércoles, 18 de marzo, 2009 a las 17:49:59 horas :

En respuesta a: Re: Copper Canyon escrito por Linda from Canada desde ( el día miércoles, 18 de marzo, 2009 a las 16:18:13 horas :

I've gone via train from Los Mochis. You can also go all the way to the start of the rail line at Topalobampo (a lovely spot itself - industrial port on the Sea of Cortez). The trip by train through the Barranca de Cobre is incredible and highly recommended!

We left the van at a hotel with safe parking (they offered at a very reasonable price to keep the van there while we traveled via train up the canyon) and returned in a few days after going up to Creel.

The train is Amtrak - the same train - same comfort as the Amtrak that crosses the western US. This is truly a beautiful trip. We stayed at a hotel a few days in Creel, went from there down the canyon to a small town and in for some hiking to some spectacular waterfalls! It really is something one should see. This is a canyon deeper than the Grand Canyon.

The Tarahumara Indians have lived in the barranca since they fled there during the Spanish Conquest years and remained ever since. They are very interesting. A word of caution...they have never been conquered by the Spanish or anyone and as might be expected are a very proud an dtough people. They make beautiful baskets of a tight weave and designs that remind me of the Navaho that they sell at the train stops. But do not offer a lower price once they tell you the price of something they are selling. They take it as a personal offense.

I've gotten pretty good at price bargaining having lived with it for 20 years and experienced it all over Mexico - and knowing it should be done with respect and good humor. I have learned that if done well and fairly, it's enjoyable for both parties. But with the Tarahumara, you are in a different culture. All rules for the honored art of 'price regateando'- good for the rest of Mexico - are off with them. The price they tell you is the price you must pay or forget it.

I once offered a price (a very friendly "Would you take $150 ?"...on a $200 peso basket). The young woman gave me a disgusted look, turned her back and walked away. When I offered to buy it at her price, she refused to sell it to me. Her look wilted me so, I felt like begging her to accept $400 and my apology but I knew that if I offered a $1000 usd , she wouldn't have taken it or even slowed down to listen to me.

They were not inclined to smile much to tourists either. Not 'unfriendly' just down to business and not interested in mixing. I suspect that these are aspects reflecting the ways they have managed to not assimilate and thus continue their amazing culture (which includes peyote visionary art and spirituality and long distance running. Maybe they are smart to be that way...come to think of it.

Hasta pronto,

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