Trip Report

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Escrito por illgringo desde ( el día viernes, 04 de diciembre, 2009 a las 21:04:54 horas :

We leave tomorrow, Saturday, after a week in paradise: It is time to return to Central Illinois, where the temperature at last report was 24, and not Celsius. This was our first trip to Zihua. I'll try not to belabor what others have said. And so, in no particular order, our recommendations/observations/experiences:

1. Get a place with AC. I know, I know: The wonderful Pacific breezes will keep you cool and comfy, you don't need it, blah, blah, blah. BS, especially on a day like today, Friday, where the temp was above 90 and the humidity reminiscent of St. Louis in July. This may or may not be unseasonable. I don't know, I don't care. All I know is that most days on the veranda were fine, but it was nice to have the AC option in our bedroom retreat. If you're omniscient enough to know the weather in advance of your travels, perhaps you could skip it. Otherwise, pay extra if you must.

2. If push comes to shove, assassinate whomever has a reservation ahead of you so that you can stay at Casa Adriana. We can't say enough about Lucy Hernandez, the manager, and her staff. When the WiFi didn't work on our arrival, they fixed it--and right now, even though we said it wasn't really necessary. When I asked Lucy to get a surprise bouquet of flowers for my wife (it was her birthday), she got an arrangement that nearly provoked tears: red roses, yellow lillies, daisies, fern, stuff I don't even know, that made the suite smell magnificent. When my wife asked for beach towels and chairs, boom, the staff went out and bought them from I don't-know-where. The locat1on just above Madera, a short walk from downtown and 50-cent bus ride to Ropa could not be beat. I relied on recommendations from this forum in selecting this spot, and those recommendations were dead on. After this experience, we wouldn't consider anywhere else.

3. Be vigilant in what you eat and drink. As I write this, my beloved is laid up with a nasty stomach bug and has been for the better part of the day. We suspect a cream/yogurt sauce she had last night during a downtown festival where they served free food and mezcal. That's about the only thing she ate that I did not; then again, I indulged in free mezcal and she did not, so perhaps cheap tequila has medicinal qualities. That said, don't be too afraid. We ate lunch at the marcados (is that how you spell it?) downtown where we had to point ("I'll take the pot on the left") and suffered no ill effect. In fact, quite delicious. There was a humble five-tacos-for-twenty-pesos taqueria three minutes from our door that we visited three times for take-out on our way home from nighttime adventures. It wasn't open during the day. Can't recall the name, but it had a red garage-style metal door that was shut during the day and a Coca-Cola sign out front. It was just down the street from the bank and a stone's throw from the market, a few doors down from what passes for Sam's Club. Look for the place with the baby sleeping on the floor, obviously contented and well-fed.

4. If you want to go to heaven, but not right now, have dinner at Kua-Kan. Again, it was my wife's birthday, and I wanted something special. It's safe to say this was a meal/evening we'll never forget. This was the total package: The food, the service, the view, the liquor could not be beat. Some folks might grouse because, by local standards, it's an expensive place (more than $100--GASP--for everything, including beverage and tip). That's barely a decent sushi dinner in Chicago, and not even the drink tab in a decent Vegas restaurant. We stayed two hours. We wanted to go back tonight, but, as I say, my wife has a stomach bug from free food. You get, as they say, what you pay for.

5. While this all seemed like heaven to us, NO ONE WAS HERE!!! At least, it seemed that way. With the exception of our first two nights here, I think we were the only guests at our hotel. The restaurants were more than half-empty, some entirely, even ones we'd patronized and knew were good. The beaches were mostly locals. I don't know how usual or unusual this might be at this time of year, but it was both wonderful (who likes crowds?) and disconcerting (fabulous restaurants and innkeepers, we worried, are suffering).

6. Narco-terrorists were nowhere in evidence. Although this was something I'd worried about when planning our trip, no worries whatsoever.

7. People smile too much. Everywhere, smile, smile, smile, smile. Don't they know there's a recession on? That the world is going to hell in a handbasket? Apparently not. That REALLY pisses me off.

There's probably more to say I'll remember later, but, as neophytes, we had, simply, a fabulous time (with the exception of my first wife's stomach bug). When I swallowed salt water while snorkeling and chummed, brilliantly colored fish came from everywhere, and so we laughed until our heads hurt. When we asked the policia if we could take a picture of us with them and their guns, Buckingham Palace style, they said no, but, gosh darn it, they were SMILING!!! This is truly an amazing place. We'll be back.

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