Zihuatanejo-Ixtapa Message Board - Capula and Las Catrinas: A Trip Report of sorts...

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Belem (my Wife) and I have recently returned from an amazing week of vacation in the Morelia/Patzcuaro area of Michoacan. We had a wonderful time relaxing, exploring, eating and generally just absorbing as much of the beauty and culture of this region as we could.

We both agree however, that the standout event of the trip was having the chance to visit the pueblo of Capula, near Patzcuaro. A beautiful little traditional village in its own right made even more magical by the art and artisans that live here. Most prominently, the art of La Catrinas.

Allow me to explain a little about Catrinas. In the 1920's Mexico was entering Revolution. The aristocratic ruling class were the subject of hatred and ridicule from the peasants. A newspaper political cartoonist by the name of Jose Guadalupe Posada created a series of caricatures mocking the wealthy, portraying them as finely dressed skeletons. The prints survived and became a part of Mexican culture. Mexico has always held death in a different view then most. It is seen as a natural part of the cycle. It is celebrated in art, holidays and more.

Juan Torres Calderon, an artist and sculptor revived the Catrinas in clay, giving them three dimensions and colors they never had as prints. They became a hit both here and with tourists abroad. Soon the village took up the art as their own and there are now many artists producing Catinas in Capula. Many are in the traditional style and others take on more whimsical or darker personas.

A walk through the village is a chance to see and meet the artists in their homes and studios and observe them creating these wonderful sculptures. I think it would be impossible not to bring at least one home for your shelf.

The original Catrina as depicted by artist Jose Guadalupe Posada.

The pueblo of Capula

The studios of Juan Torres Calderon in Capula. Beautiful grounds filled with art. Amazing views of the country side and a chance to buy from the Master himself.

One of Sr. Torres's traditional Catrinas.

A male Version.

The studio of Juan Torres

Catrinas in various states of completion as well as other works.

One of the local artisans and her work.

Belem is spell bound by these beauties...

It is fascinating walking through the galleries and trying to choose a piece to take home. Fascinating and nearly impossible.

The detail is amazing and it is hard to believe the fineness of the work.

Catrinas are now found in many styles. Each artist adapting the pieces to their tastes and visions.

Another artist in her gallery. When we asked about some of the dozens of pieces she had she told us all of them were already sold. There is an excellent demand for this art world wide.

Hope you enjoyed a little piece of our trip. I strongly recommend everyone should visit this region of Mexico...

--
www.williammertz.photography

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We visited his studio 2 years ago when we were touring Morelia and the small villages between Morelia and Patzquaro. Did you visit his church where his art work is on display ( he had a beautiful portrait of his mother)- his wife does the Catrinas and Juan does the paintings. Coming out of the church we were met by this beautiful young lady and she turned out to be his daughter. We were asked if we would like to tour his studio in their home- what a beautiful home. In the back of the studio there was this antique piano and we asked did he play and she said when he was in the mood he is a concert pianist. On the right side of the door going downstairs there were 3 different size of easels that when he was really in the mood he would have 3 different paintings of different sizes he did at the same time. We were invited through the door that went down stairs to the daughter's studio. The daughter does hand made designer purses and was doing a show that Saturday and we were invited but was catching a bus to "Z"- was glad we had had problems with the ATM that morning because the cheapest purse was $100 US- this was when the students were blocking roads and some of the banks blocked withdrawals from the States we found out later.

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They also have a very nice Japanese garden and a greenhouse full of exotic plants.

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We toured the green house- my wife is a plant person(is in the University of Kentucky Master Gardener Program now) could not get over the variation of plants in the green house. When we came out of the daughters studio there was the Japanese garden. The estate is worth the trip. That was the 2nd village we had toured that morning- the first is known for furniture- all you have to do is take a picture of a piece or pieces of furniture and they will build it for you- furniture from that little village is shipped all over Mexico and even to the States. When our guide/taxi cab driver found we liked to visit the village churchs he took us to the church in each village- you do not have to be religious to appreciate these old and historic churches. We had a wonderful 2 days touring the villages between Morelia and Patzquaro- the only problems were the students having streets and roads blocked in Morelia. We flew back to Morelia in Jan of this year and our guide took us to see the butterflies a 2 hr drive from Morelia- a Bucket List item.

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Thanks Will, for these beautiful photos, as well as your time to post them!

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Wonderful report Wil!
I really enjoyed the history of the Catrinas and their relationship to the Revolution.
What really brought it all to life were your beautiful photos.
Muchisimas gracias.

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I can't thank you enough for posting this here, Wil. Truly wonderful work by very talented artisans. ¡Muchas gracias, amigo! ¡Saludos y abrazos!

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We were fortunate enough to be there in February. We found a beautiful Catrina in the artists' cooperative. The ladies took out their roll of toilet paper and wrapped her ever so carefully. I despaired if getting her home intact since this is a Catrina with every finger bone lovingly apparent.

Long story short, travels over. The toilet paper and makeshift cardboard container held, we all arrived in Evanston intact and every time I look at her, I love her.

I am going back next year and I know that my Catrina would be happier with a friend so I am going to be looking for one.

Thanks, Wil. Nice memories.

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We have visited Capula quite a few times, and thought we knew our way around! Obviously not. Being plant people, we will make a point of visiting and buying from Juan Torres and exploring his garden.
That's IF we get our motorhome problems resolved, and make it out of Mazatlan! Thanks for the pictures and reminding us of what we have to look forward to in a few days. It really helps!

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Yes thanks for the beautiful photos. We've visited Capula twice and I'm always spellbound by the amazing Catrinas.

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Thank you Wil! We love Capula and Juan Torres. i own at least six catrinas all by different artists including Juan Torres. I love them all. it is a very special town. Another great town up there is Tocuaro, where masks are king. The Horta family specializes in traditional Purepecha masks.

--
Harriet
http://www.viewcondozihua.com/

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What's really great about most of the villages, is each village has something to offer. This goes back when the leader of the Church where village was taught a trade that way each had something to sell or trade. That's why you see 1 famous for mask, for using reeds from the lake, palm leaves, pottery- that is why we love to visit all the little villages.

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and I urge everyone who visits the area to please visit the villages. They are really suffering because of the travel warnings. We have good friends who have a shop in Santa Clara del Cobre and the visitors have dwindle to a trickle. Over the years we return to Tzintzantzun ( wonderful potter here as well as straw/reed weaving)plus the new museum up by the fortress ruins.... Quiroga ( for the carnitas), Capula to admire Catrina's, Tocuaro ( for masks ..we have a great assortment)..another village Enchaguaro(sp??) has great painted furniture...if you go past Santa Clara del Cobre there''s a small lake with the best fried fish served up in newspaper cups..so many wonderful places to explore from Patzcuaro ( or Morelia)
We have easily spent a week in the area.

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Our first trip to Morelia 2 yrs ago, the butterflies were late and our guide suggested that we do the villages. What a wonderful 2 days that turned out to be. We learned so much about the area. Our guide had spent years in the Chicago area and spoke excellent English. He is so proud of his heritage- the tour was like a history lesson. He gave us a book about the history of the area and the circle trip. When we were there in January we stayed in a hotel(closed while we were there) in Morelia that was a resting place for the nuns on their way to serve the villages in 16/1700. We love "Z" but Morelia and the villages between Patzquaro have so much history. We were take to one village to see a church that had the first hospital(I thank Santa Clara- not sure now) and 2 families take care of the church, each week there is a party when the other family takes over. When traveling like that it is well worth the cost of a guide that knows the villages and the special artisans that have their studios a way from the main road, you would never know they are there because their items are not in the shops on the highway but in their studio/home.

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Can you share the guide's name and contact info?

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I just sent him a email to see if he is still doing the tours.
His name is Jesus Lopez and email yuslopez@sbcglobal.net
He picked us up at the airport twice and helped us get the 7am bus to "Z" both times.
When picking up passengers at airport, 1 has to sit in the front seat with him to make it look like everyone are friends because of the taxi union at the airport. In the little villages he knew where the artisans had their studio in their home on the side streets/alleys. Kathie really had a history lesson about the area from Jesus.

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I'd appreciate more info on the potter in Tzintzuntzan. I took a pottery tour in Michoacán a few years ago, but don't recall visiting Tzintzuntzan then. We have purchased some of those beautiful flowers made of corn husks there, at the crafts market on the main road.

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If this town is where the ruins are, there is a famous potter er there. Our guide when we were doing the lake tour while staying in Patzquaro knew exactly how to find the studio. You went through the gate at the church where all the inexpensive pottery is. After going through the gate, about half way along the wall on the right side was a exit and you went through it. The studio was on I thank the first alley on the right. Kathie bought a beautiful vase signed by him showing the history of the area. She paid almost $100 US for the vase and feels it was worth every penny- we stayed 3 nights at Econ-Hotel in Patzquaro- what a view of the valley below with the island and the mountains in the back ground. When we go back we want to stay there.

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Thanks for both pieces of information.

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Our first trip to Patzquaro, we flew into "Z" and rented a car and drove to Patzquaro. The trip was costly because we would go to a ATM by one of the squares and the next day Kathie would spend everything and then have to go to the ATM that evening. In one village we were taken to the artisan that did the masks and Kathie bought a beautiful hand carved Madonna. Coming back to Patzquaro we had a late lunch at this place that looked like a Swiss Chalet- the food was very good and they have rooms.

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Resisting blowing one's wad on arts and crafts in Mexico is a real challenge. Here's a temptation to consider: there's an artist who displays his work in Morelia, behind a news stand, on a corner across from the cathedral. He has some kind of a neurologic disease, which necessitates holding his brush in his mouth in order to paint. He has a great sense of composition and color. Hard to decide which picture you like best.

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- we stayed 3 nights at Econ-Hotel in Patzquaro- what a view of the valley below with the island and the mountains in the back ground. When we go back we want to stay there.

Was the hotel in Patzcuaro the Eco Hotel Ixhi ?
It looks marvelous. I think we'd want to stay there, too!

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Yes and we loved it. The hotel is hard to find because it is away from the center of town.
The street to it probably has been fixed by now. We were told to make a right at the red light off the main street. All of a sudden we are on a gravel road going up a hill- we thought we were lost but after driving up the hill there was a sign tacked to the tree that said Econ-Hotel. When you go through the gate, talk about a view- can not express it in words. We were there in March and it was cold at night and needed electric heaters but the days were wonderful. Just sitting on the lawn looking out across the way with nothing in front of you to block the view with the valley below, the lake in the back ground and the mountains in the way distance- at the time we were there Patzquaro was having problems with cars being broken into at night if parked on the street. This hotel was much cheaper than the hotels that offered off street parking- for the view and price was a good decision at the time.

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