Capula and Las Catrinas: A Trip Report of sorts...

Belem (my Wife) and I have recently returned from an amazing week of vacation in the Morelia/Patzcuaro area of Michoacan. We had a wonderful time relaxing, exploring, eating and generally just absorbing as much of the beauty and culture of this region as we could.

We both agree however, that the standout event of the trip was having the chance to visit the pueblo of Capula, near Patzcuaro. A beautiful little traditional village in its own right made even more magical by the art and artisans that live here. Most prominently, the art of La Catrinas.

Allow me to explain a little about Catrinas. In the 1920's Mexico was entering Revolution. The aristocratic ruling class were the subject of hatred and ridicule from the peasants. A newspaper political cartoonist by the name of Jose Guadalupe Posada created a series of caricatures mocking the wealthy, portraying them as finely dressed skeletons. The prints survived and became a part of Mexican culture. Mexico has always held death in a different view then most. It is seen as a natural part of the cycle. It is celebrated in art, holidays and more.

Juan Torres Calderon, an artist and sculptor revived the Catrinas in clay, giving them three dimensions and colors they never had as prints. They became a hit both here and with tourists abroad. Soon the village took up the art as their own and there are now many artists producing Catinas in Capula. Many are in the traditional style and others take on more whimsical or darker personas.

A walk through the village is a chance to see and meet the artists in their homes and studios and observe them creating these wonderful sculptures. I think it would be impossible not to bring at least one home for your shelf.

The original Catrina as depicted by artist Jose Guadalupe Posada.

The pueblo of Capula

The studios of Juan Torres Calderon in Capula. Beautiful grounds filled with art. Amazing views of the country side and a chance to buy from the Master himself.

One of Sr. Torres's traditional Catrinas.

A male Version.

The studio of Juan Torres

Catrinas in various states of completion as well as other works.

One of the local artisans and her work.

Belem is spell bound by these beauties...

It is fascinating walking through the galleries and trying to choose a piece to take home. Fascinating and nearly impossible.

The detail is amazing and it is hard to believe the fineness of the work.

Catrinas are now found in many styles. Each artist adapting the pieces to their tastes and visions.

Another artist in her gallery. When we asked about some of the dozens of pieces she had she told us all of them were already sold. There is an excellent demand for this art world wide.

Hope you enjoyed a little piece of our trip. I strongly recommend everyone should visit this region of Mexico...