Oaxaca, Hualtuco,Puebla, Cuernavaca

We've been wanting to get to Oaxaca and Hualtuco for years. I'm glad you covered the flight from O to H. I had a hard time convincing one of our regular traveling companions that it would be the way to go. Thanks for the take-along. I'm not sure I'll ever get there but a guy can dream, and you certainly helped stoke that dream.

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Curly!

Jan 9th we left Zihuatanejo by plane through MEX for Oaxaca where we stayed on the edge of centro in Posada San Roberto Lugar 15 minute walk to the Zocalo. What beautiful vibrant city with interesting happenings going on within and in the surrounding towns. Mt. Alban which was abandoned in the year 800 is as impressive as any other site built by the ancients anywhere in the Central Americas. Very comfortable place to be for the 12 days we spent there and for a Foodie, Heaven. There are galleries galore both state and private historical and modern and a thriving graphic art community somewhat with a revolutionary bent.( Could be because it was the home of Benito Juarez. ) Casa Colonial hosts a music afternoon each Sunday which we had the pleasure of attending however the place is booked solid so as is often heard “no room at the Inn” At the afternoon event we met many ex-pats who have made Oaxaca their home camp for the winter its not too hot just comfortable and many activities to keep one busy, definitely a possibility for longer term stay in the future.

While there we did an overnight hike in the Sierre Norte staying in a cabin for the night. A guide is provided who tells you all about this autonomous region and its peoples her peoples and how they have restructured from mainly a logging business into Eco tourism. It is at 10,000+ feet so take your time hiking if you go to this magical area.

We wanted to return to the coast for a bit and not wanting to take the 7 hr bus ride through the mountains nor fly via MEX we hopped on a 13 Seater prop plane and arrived 45 minutes later. It was a great flight, smooth there and back and the skies were clear so we had a great view of the towns and villages on route. I would highly recommend going that way albeit more expensive. We flew to Hualtuco which if you don’t know is a Fontana (sp?) built community such as Ixtapa and Cancun are but with much more thought. All infrastructure was in place including drinking water from the taps and although no one could confirm it the building code seems to limit buildings to 3 stories. Being a direct route south from the west there are many tourists in town for whom it was built and if you swing a cat you cant help but hit a Canadian or three. We found a small family run hotel with a great restaurant attached to stay in and ventured out for the 5 days. we went there to the beach to the restaurants to watch hockey with other Canadians and one day rented a car to drive up the coast to Mazunte where a friend spends a month specifically to go to a Yoga school and write his next University course. On route we stopped in Zipolite for a walk down the beach and to get some lunch not knowing that it is the Nudist capital of Mexico. There was an annual gathering coming up in February and it seems quite a few had arrived early letting it all hang out. As the French say “chaque une son gout”

Returing to Oaxaca we spent one more night at the Posada where Ana Maria had kept our extra luggage not required for beach wear then got on a bus for Puebla about 4 ½ hr ride. Puebla is big but the core is interesting and worth a few days of exploring. We were lucky there was some evening entertainment on the square a rag time band was playing and then a country western band after. In front of the big cathedral is a large structure which until we managed to get into was a mystery. It seems some architect convinced the clergy of the day that they needed a replica of the Sistine Chapel. Its not perfect I’ve been in it in Rome but a reasonable facimile. I have to thank the Catholic church for its weirdness it certainly has provided lots of interesting sites to look at over the years. I am not religious but I would say I’ve been in more churches worldwide then most have attended Sunday mass in their own town. There is a free tourist train that takes you out to one of the “Magical” towns , Cholula is closer to the base of Popocatepl well worth a day trip and yes the volcano was occasionally saying hello with big black puffs of smoke from its top. Of coarse if you are a collector of Talavera pottery then this is the Mexican home of the special style. We toured almost every major and minor store to find just the right flower vase finding the right one in Cholula. It was either that or steal the one off the table in the hotel we were staying at 3 minute walk form the beautiful treed Zocalo in Puebla.

On to Cuernavaca which we had only passed through in the past. We found a cozy inn to stay in the centro called Hotel Villa Bonita with attached restaurant Las Orquideas. Excellent accommodation and food and it happens to be just down the street from the number one tourist site the Robert Brady house and museum. The Cortez house and museum is still under renovation after an earthquake back in 2017 damaged a big part of the place so it is as of yet mostly closed off. (sub note: there is a movie about Cortez’s first visit to Mexico before he got run off back to Spain being made at this moment coming out in late 2021 as a series) We watched the Superbowl in a big open courtyard with about 8 different bars and restaurants in it although most of the young people were not paying much attention to game just drinking and eating and chatting over the sound of 60s/70s rock music. When Jaylo came on for the half time show the rock music disappeared and the latin rhythms behide the act came up and everyone was paying attention.

From Cuernavac we bussed back to Mexico city the road reaching a peak altitude of 9931 ft + or – to stay at Art Residence San Angel. Every Saturday on the square in San Angel there is an art and craft fair worth attending if you are in that area and the Freda Kahlo museum a must see in Mexico is only a 35 minute walk across a large park . On the Sunday before we had to take the Redeye home we went to the art show as suggested in early January on this web site that someone was going to attend. Thankyou thankyou thankyou for suggesting it. A good ½ hr taxi to the Banamex convention centre and 375 pesos to get in and it was worth every bit to see the largest art show and sale in latin America. We were wowed by the first booth where a German art dealer had 3 Marc Chagal’s and two Picasso plates for sale then a short distance away there were 5 Andy Warhols for sale. “Honey sell the house we are taking home some art!” 100s of artists on display obviously the ones that the many galleries thought were their best transported there from all over the world for display and sale. Many of the galleries were from Mexico city which showed what kind of a diverse art scene there is in the city.

That was the end of our six weeks, we went back to San Angel to collect our bags and headed off to the airport to catch the flight back to the frigid north who knows when we will return there are so many other places in the world to visit. All of this is to say “ Get off the coast folks, get out of the sand man make a new plan Stan there is so much to see!! “ (Thanks Mr Simon) The people are so very friendly you might just want to stay and explore some more. Oaxaca state is one of the most diverse in the country and safest if that is a determining factor for you I recommend it highly and they have 7 different types of Mole, Yumm!!

PS we have already been curling and downhill skiing and are packing up for a week at a winter timeshare resort just west of Ottawa. No point in fighting it may as well enjoy the cold and its benefits.

I can only comment that I also did the Oaxaca-Puerto Escondido route last year. However I did take the bus across the mountains...and it was fine...although I had to pee most of the way and was not sure when we would stop and I was unsure if I could ask the driver!
Oaxaca is an interesting colonial city- but it is a CITY- traffic, etc.
Puerto Escondido is fabulous and if I hadn't already put my chips in Zihua, I would seriously consider centering out of there.
All those beach towns to the south- Mazunte, Zipolite, and a few others I can't recall are great- and I specifically went to Zipolite so I could shun my clothes and run like a horse on the beach. Never felt so free until it came time to cross the burning hot sand to where my clothes and shoes were.
Oaxaca State is highly recommended

Thanks. Made me lonesome for Oaxaca.

Great report. Thanks. We've stayed at Casa Colonial several times. Charming, secure and within easy walking distance to the center of town. Jane Robison, the owner, is an old friend from my San Francisco days. She can arrange for trips to the surrounding villages, where there is much to be seen (and bought) in the way of arts and crafts.

wow thank you for such a great and detailed post. I've been to Huatulco and but we have been wanting to visit Oaxaca and this post makes it an even easier decision. Hope all is well and come that first week of April, and it's green in Augusta, GA, I'll be the guy behind hole #10 and responsible for it that week. Semper!!

For your flight from Oaxaca down to the coast in the prop plane, what was the name of the carrier?

Thanks for the great post.
We love Oaxaca...We plan to go back to the city
We are interested in a long term rental in either Zihuatanejo or Hualtuco. For the life, the people, the food and the culture as much or more than the beach.

Did you enjoy Hualtuco or Zihuatanejo more for a long term stay?

I would appreciate your answers.

Thank you!
Be well.
Deborah