Trip report part 1

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Posted by JEF from ( on sábado, julio 27, 2002 at 12:49:33 :

Trip report :
We are mostly back, though I am sure I saw a part of me searching for sea urchins on
Troncones beach this morning, right before I started work . I have to say, I was both
thrilled and saddened with our trip. I will say it up front: the poverty was hard to take in.
With it goes the inexplicable attitude toward trash, animal over population ( and lack of
care for). For most people visiting the Zihua/ Ixtapa area, these images can be quickly
overridden with the beauty and seductive allure of the tropics. Because we had a car
and went by and to several small outlying towns, we were repeatedly confronted with
these realities. I am not suggesting people don’t visit, rather that you be as generous as
you can. If you don’t think it is really that ‘bad’ take some time to travel the rural areas.
Among those sights you will also find people who are honest and sincere , willing to
break their backs to make a ‘meager’ living. So unlike the welfare culture here in the
Okay, now for our experiences...
We arrived in Zihua on the 4th. Thankful to have made it. Our first major undertaking
was getting a Taxi. Right at the time we were doing this the welcoming band began
blasting the area with sound. I could not even think, and I certainly could not
hear/communicate with the transportation person. She wrote out for me that it was 180
pesos. We had not changed money so I asked how much in American and she said
22.00. The band was SOOO loud I just wanted to be gone so I paid, we were taken to
our taxi, and only then did the financial transaction register with me. My mistake for not
being on top of it. No big deal. We were delighted with our first glimpse of San
Sabastion. Olivia was there to greet us, and quickly became a valued resource as well
as just a great lady to talk with. Our room had a beautiful view and was very
comfortable, though we discovered that night the cement bed platform led to a few sore
muscles . We were on the beach in 30 min. The weather looked horrid when we flew in,
but was actually warm and pleasant, perfect for a beach stroll down to La Perlas. We
had still not exchanged money but they take credit cards and the bar tender exchanged
a small amount to I could ‘buy’ a couple of songs from the roving musicians. It usually
takes me a few days to really relax on vacation. 1 tequila, 1 Sol, tasty salsa and chips,
lovely tunes and la Ropa’s beauty did the trick before dinner even arrived. We were beat
so didn’t last long, but it was a wonderful start.
Up early to catch the bus into town for money exchange and groceries. The busses that
run from la ropa to town but great, but we never found how to get let off anywhere
except the central market. Here is my BIG regret of the trip... I found that many of the
people I wanted to speak with did not speak or understand English. I wish I had taken
my language studying more seriously! Possibly because we strayed from the typical
tourist path, or just the way it is, I don’t know. Everyone was very kind in their attempts
to communicate but I would have loved to talk more. The market was a cultural
adjustment in the making. Big time. My little corner of the world seems odorless,
colorless, and mute by comparison. We did not stay long that day, though went back
several times. We headed for the new large mercado which the cashier at la perlas had
said was best. He had given us a map so we knew where to go but... why we chose to
walk??? My husbands idea. It was far longer than we had anticipated and we were
unprepared--- no sun screen, hats, carrying bags of don Julio we purchased in town etc.
The market truly was huge and became a staple for us for many things, but we still
preferred to buy our seafood and produce at the Centro mercado. Much fresher and a
more enjoyable experience. We taxied ‘home’, fixed brunch, hit the beach, and thus
began the rhythm of our days.
Day two was the fish market, just to look. We loved it! The babies sleeping in arms or on
mats as the business of buying and selling they wide array of fresher than fresh fish took
place. We did not buy because we assumed we would have to buy a whole fish. Never
found out. We walked to the mercado and there purchased fish for dinner. That day it
was a beautiful clear eyed Dorado that had just come in. The finesse of the fisher
women in filleting still has me awed. Next was taxi home and then beach. We mostly
hung out at what I think was called Gaviotas, at the far end of la Ropa. Ice cold beer and
friendly waiters.
Day three was Las Gatas and hanging with Franco. Another very nice guy and great
pina colatas. A fun day of snorkeling and utter relaxation! Drinks at Villas la Ropa and
dinner at Danials. A very fun day.
Day four found my son then my husband feeling pretty off . A day of Imodium and
lounging by the pool. A few hours into the day I joined them. Not having fun. This was
also an unnerving day due to happenings at our place. We had met a young girl in the
pool who was staying with her mother and her boyfriend as well as a nanny . This girl
was 11 going on 25. At one point she informed us that we would want to leave the pool
by 2:00 that day because that was when the girls would arrive. She said her moms
boyfriend would first be taking their pictures in the bedroom and then in the pool. She
said he was a famous photographer. We said cool, we’ll watch. She said no one was
suppose to be around because the pictures were of them naked. She and her nanny had
to stay in there suite until told, and she said we probably should too. It didn’t seem to
occur to her that she was giving out info that was of a sensitive nature, but her nanny
was pretty nervous. Sure enough at 2:00 the girls arrive. I counted 5, all between the
ages of maybe 13 and 16. We did not leave the pool even though the boyfriend kept
coming down to see if it was empty. Made us feel even sicker! Found out later that he
pays them 100.00 for one hour of pictures. Not hard to figure why these young girls were
lined up.
Next day. No better but our last day in Zihua before heading to Troncones. We again
hung out with our Imodium and added pepto. We would do dinner tonight, no matter
what! Dinner at Kau Kan. Wonderful meals for each of us, great margaritas, gorgeous
view and very warm service. Almost had us feeling human.
to be continued, should anyone care to check back

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